Category Archives: Automotive

Four Motorcycle Helmets that Proved to Provide the Most Safety in 2016

Accidents are hard to avoid, especially if you’re riding a motorcycle. This holds true no matter how careful you are. However, it’s possible to protect yourself from suffering serious physical injuries by wearing a helmet. Here are some of the best helmets that are proven to be safe. On the other hand, if you’re wondering about the common causes of motorcycle accidents and why hiring a lawyer is important, you can find that information right here.

1. Shark Evoline
The Shark Evoline is one of the few helmets that has a Lexan Polycarbonate shell. This offers optimum protection against high impact crashes. Aside from that, the Shark Evoline is also ECE 2205 and DOT approved. It comes with a chinbar Auto-Up system that provides easy manipulation, and it’s also ECE 2205 certified in both open and closed positions. For the weight, it weighs around 200 grams, and its design can also cut out the noise.

2. Omega Motorcycle Helmet
For those who are in search of a premium quality motorcycle helmet that could also protect your face, this one is for you; The Omega Full Face motorcycle helmet is made up of multi-density EPS and it’s best known for the ability to stay rigid even during a strong force crash. With this helmet, you’ll have the assurance that you’d be safe from serious injuries. Aside from that, this helmet also offers comfort due to its breathable fabric placed inside. You’ll have the ventilation you need, especially during hot summer days. However, the real highlight would be the Twin Shield System as it provides clarity you need when driving.

3. ILM Dual Visor Flip Up Modular Helmet
This modular helmet of DOT should definitely be a part of your safest motorcycle helmet at an affordable price. It’s not only stylish, but it’s also feature-rich. Not just that, the most wonderful thing about this helmet is that it’s very affordable. Despite its remarkable quality, it’s cheaper than most of premium models out there. Though, what really made this helmet quite popular would be its adaptable design that gives you the versatility you need. It can be used as a full-face helmet that offers maximum protection, and you can also use it as an open-face helmet for those who prefers ventilation and would love to enjoy the breeze while driving. The design of this helmet has also been perfected to reduce the incursion of wind noise. That means even if you’re driving at high speed, you don’t have to be discomposed by the wind noise. Let’s not forget the EPS Impact Absorption Inner Liner it also has. It’s one of the features that provides safety because it could effectively absorb the shock during a motorcycle accident.

4. Bell Solid Street Bike Racing Motorcycle Helmet
The Bell Solid Street Motorcycle Helmet is a full face helmet that offers great protection at a very affordable price. It’s made to be highly aerodynamic with minimal or no pounding at all, even when you’re riding at extreme speeds. Aside from that, you can also open the sides to enjoy maximum ventilation.

Mercedes Benz CLA: Changing The Aspects Of Driving.

Mercedes Benz started to sell the CLA-Class model in the year 2014. The sad story is that people want something new. To keep the interest in mind Mercedes is going to bring a new revolution in CLA models with new innovations and technologies. CLA250 and ClA45 will change the world as it sets off in the streets. Everything about new CLA models is simply amazing. From the front to be back the design curved keeps old aspect and new foundations. Viewers and buyers will have to wait till 2017 to see this car in showrooms and running on roads. The updates made in the car will be loved by tech lovers and safety precautions are at par.

Performance of engine

Both of the Mercedes Benz CLA models 250 and 24 are powered by turbocharged 2.0 liter four Cylinder Engine. Horsepower of Mercedes CLA 250 pulls out a horsepower of 208 with 258 pounds of torque, whereas AMG CLA 45 has 375 horsepower along with 350-pound torque. The owners who are going to buy this car will get an additional option of choosing a four wheel drive or standard front wheel drive. Both of these cars are having dual clutch 7-speed transmission.

Elegant features of design

You don’t have to keep your eyes sharp to check just wow the bumpers are placed in front and rear. Tailpipes are integrated with the small amount of adjustment made in the front end and this result in keeping a low profile coefficient in the car. Directly or indirectly this will help to improve the fuel economy of the car. The color of the car is available in two variances of white and red which suits every personality. New LED light is available to view road at night on both the models of Mercedes-Benz CLA-250 and Standard model CLA-45. The best custom wheels for Mercedes are available, but you need to pick the best one.

Inside the car

Changes are not designed only outside but inside the manufacturers of Mercedes have given much more improvement. The display screen now has a new 8-inch display for a better view and it is still similar to previous car’s screen. Backup camera is of standard quality and assists for Mercedes Benz active brake.

The technology of Smartphone integration opts with the options of Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. There are enough airbags that pops out at the right time to decrease the injuries. Led lights are also inside the car to make the car brighter without hurting eyes. The braking and clutch system is so smooth that it feels like stepping on a cloud 9.

The price of the car is not described yet. The car will first get showcased in the third quarters at the US in 2016. People will get a nearby look of the car in 2017. Till then we can only apply breaks to our hearts.

Is Synthetic Oil Important

If your car’s owner’s manual says it does, you do.

For many consumers, whether to spend extra money for synthetic oil for an oil change is a difficult question to answer.

Manufacturers of synthetic oil promise more miles and better performance when compared with conventional motor oil, but it comes at a higher cost — sometimes twice as much per oil change. Is it worth the extra money?

Typically, high-performance vehicles will be more likely to require synthetic oil, as will vehicles that have a turbocharged or supercharged engine. However, if your vehicle does not require synthetic oil, the choice is trickier – and there is no clear answer.

Synthetic oil generally resists breaking down for longer than conventional motor oil (typically 7,500 miles to 10,000 miles, sometimes up to 15,000 miles, as opposed to 3,000 miles to 7,500 miles for conventional oil). That makes the extra cost a wash, if you have half the number of oil changes, but each one costs you twice as much. Other touted benefits include cleaner engines, better flow in cold temperatures, better protection when it’s hot outside and better performance with turbocharged engines.

There are also synthetic blends. As the name implies, these are blends of synthetic and conventional oils. They straddle a middle ground — they cost more than conventional oils but less than full synthetics, and are said to last longer than conventional oils but not quite as long as synthetics — but again, that’s a hard number to pin down since manufacturers are vague with their claims. An independent testing lab we spoke with said that synthetics often didn’t perform much better than conventional oils do.

Still, older engines may benefit from synthetics because it is less likely to form sludge.

If your car doesn’t require synthetic oil you should perform a cost/benefit analysis, but that can be difficult to do due to vague claims made by manufacturers. There may be no reason to spend more on synthetic oil, except for peace of mind.

Car Beat At The Summer

Temperatures this June hit higher than average on all but three days in parts of the U.S., according to the National Weather Service and The Weather Channel, and this pattern is expected to continue throughout the summer. How can you help your car beat the heat? Here are some tips to keep your car — and your passengers — cool and protected.

Maintenance

Regular maintenance is key to helping your car survive a hot summer. Start under the hood. Look for battery corrosion, as the heat raises the internal temperature of the battery and speeds up corrosion on the terminals. According to research by Interstate Batteries, more than 30 percent of vehicles with batteries 3 years or older experience battery failure, so get older batteries tested by a technician.

Check your vehicle’s fluid levels, particularly the engine oil and coolant. You’ll also want to inspect coolant hoses for wear and tear and look for leaks, which typically develop near hose clamps, the radiator and the water pump. Other levels to check include brake, transmission and power-steering fluids. Taking care of routine maintenance before a trip is a good way to avoid becoming one of the travelers this summer who will need to have their broken-down car towed for repairs, as AAA estimated 3.5 million needed in 2013.

Tires

Driving with properly inflated tires will help reduce the risk of tire blowouts and lengthen their life. An under-inflated tire generates more heat, which adds to already-hot summer temperatures and causes them to wear out quicker.

Consumer Reports and heat transfer experts C, G, & J Inc. recommend checking your vehicle’s tire pressure in the morning or when the tires have been sitting for more than three hours, as tire pressure recommendations are based on the tires being “cold.” Tire pressure can change 1 pound per square inch for every 10-degree change in air temperature. So if the temperature rises 30 degrees during the day, the tire pressure will increase 3 psi.

Keep tires inflated to the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended level, which is located on the tire information sticker on the driver’s doorjamb or in the owner’s manual. Make sure to check the tire pressure at least monthly, if not more often, as tires tend to lose 1 psi per month.

Air Flow

It’s hard for most of us to imagine driving around in the heat without air conditioning. To keep that cold air pumping through a heatwave, make sure there is enough refrigerant in your car’s air-conditioning system. A technician will be able to tell if there’s a leak in the system.

Leaving windows cracked or vents opened will also allow hot air to escape, according to sustainable chemistry corporation BASF, and if time isn’t a factor, opening all the doors to let more heat out is recommended before entering your car.

Keep the Cabin Cool

Leather and vinyl seats can get really hot — even when parked in the shade. I recently got into my SUV dressed in shorts and quickly remembered how hot seats can get. Parking in the shade will help keep the cabin cooler, but to keep the parts of the car you come in contact with from getting too hot, BASF suggests draping towels on the seats and steering wheel.

 

It may seem obvious to park in the shade on a hot day, but this does more for your vehicle than just keep it cooler for your return. Parking in the shade helps preserve the color of the upholstery and the appearance of trim pieces, and a cooler cabin also means less work for the air-conditioning system when you’re ready to drive again.

If parking fully in the shade isn’t an option, try to position the front of the car away from the sun to keep the front seats and steering wheel cooler. Some cars have rear sunshades that can be pulled up when needed, but an accessory windshield shade can also help keep the cabin cooler when parked. A more expensive option is window tinting, but some states have laws limiting how dark tinting can be.

Replace a Damaged Wheel

unduhan-18If it’s cosmetic or superficial damage, such as from scraping a curb, the wheel is probably still round and has no bent sections or chunks of metal missing. On the other hand, if the wheel is bent, cracked or structurally weakened from hitting a massive pothole, running over a steep curb or some other mishap, it may need to be replaced, though it could possibly be repaired.

A dented wheel may not be able to maintain a seal with the tire bead, resulting in consistent slow leaks or blowouts, and will be difficult if not impossible to balance so that it doesn’t vibrate at speed. A wheel with structural damage could eventually break apart. When in doubt about the severity of damage, a mechanic experienced in assessing wheel damage should inspect the entire wheel with the tire removed.

Whether to repair or replace a damaged wheel is often a judgment call, but because it involves safety issues as well as cosmetic concerns, the best course is to err on the side of safety.

Repair services that promise to restore badly damaged wheels to like-new condition might be able to remove dents and bends and make a rim look great again. However, there are no federal safety standards that apply to refurbished wheels, so you’ll be taking your chances as to whether they’ll still have their original strength and integrity.

Repairing more than superficial damage will not be an easy do-it-yourself project. Heat and specialized machines are used to straighten bends, and a complete refurbishment involves removing all paint and protective coatings, repairing corrosion and physical damage, then applying new coatings.

The cost of repairing a car wheel will vary by size, type and amount of damage, and it might approach the price of a new or used replacement. Many original-equipment alloy wheels can cost hundreds of dollars (even thousands in the case of luxury and sports cars) to replace, so buying a used one can save money. However, it might be hard to determine if a used wheel had prior damage and is refurbished.

Brakes Squealing

If you’re lucky, the squealing (or squeaking) noise that your brakes make when you first drive your car in the morning, particularly after rain or snow, is just surface rust being scraped off the rotors by the pads the first few times you apply the brake pedal, or the result of moisture and dirt that collects on the rotors, including from condensation caused by high humidity. If it goes away after a few brake applications, no worries.

If the noise persists most times or every time you apply the brakes or stays on continuously while you’re driving, the cause is more serious — and the fix will be more expensive.

A continuous high-pitched squeal while you’re driving is usually the sound of a built-in wear indicator telling you that it’s time for new pads. As the pads wear down and get thinner, a small metal tab contacts the rotor like a needle on a vinyl record to warn you it’s time for new pads. (Some wear indicators may work differently and engage only when you apply the brakes.)

Other squeals and squeaks will require a brake inspection to diagnose, and may require cleaning, lubrication or adjustment, and possibly new parts. Most brake noise is caused by worn or loose parts.

For example, an unevenly worn rotor (often referred to as “warped”) won’t let the brake pads press flat against the rotor when you apply the brakes, and that can create vibrations that generate noise. Likewise, an unevenly worn pad won’t press tightly against the rotor and may chirp. Another possibility is that the pads are loosely mounted, or the shims that hold them in place have corroded or become loose.

And then there are the pads themselves. Some mechanics warn that bargain-bin pads are more likely to be noisier than higher-quality, more-expensive pads. In addition, loose or sticking calipers can contribute noise.

Because there are several possibilities, and because brakes are a crucial safety feature, it is best to have a pro diagnose noise.

A grinding sound usually means that the pads have worn away, and now the backing plates on which they were mounted are being squeezed against the rotor. This metal-to-metal contact means that you will need to replace the rotor as well — and that you probably ignored some earlier warning signs of brake wear.

How to Handle a Tire at a Time

You can safely replace only one tire if the others still have most of their tread.

Unlike the old days, when a pair of “snow tires” would be mounted to the drive wheels only for winter use, today we recognize that a vehicle should have four matching tires: same type, same model and, yes, even same degree of wear. The reason is simple: A car with four tires that behave the same — whether accelerating, braking or cornering — is balanced and predictable. If any of these factors are different at one or more wheels, traction characteristics can vary and performance will be unbalanced.

Tread depth is measured in 32nds of an inch, and most new tires typically have 10/32 to 12/32 (5/16 to 3/8) of an inch of tread. If a car’s other tires have lost only 2/32 or up to maybe 4/32 of their original tread depth, it’s probably OK to replace just the damaged tire.

There can be exceptions, though. Some manufacturers of all-wheel-drive vehicles recommend that all four tires be replaced, not just one or two, because a new tire will have a larger overall diameter than the other tires. The ones that have lost just a few 32nds of tread depth will spin faster than the new one, and the difference could cause an all-wheel-drive system to engage on dry pavement and possibly damage the system.

On an all-wheel-drive vehicle or one with a conventional four-wheel-drive system, all four tires would ideally be replaced at the same time so they all have the same amount of traction as well as the same diameter.

On a front- or rear-wheel-drive vehicle, similar guidelines apply. If half or more of the tread on all four tires is gone, replacing just one tire will result in one wheel spinning at a slower rate than the others, possibly sending false signals to the traction control and antilock braking systems. It also will result in one tire having more or less raction for acceleration, braking and cornering grip than the others, which can affect a vehicle’s behavior. On a two-wheel-drive vehicle, a better approach would be to replace both tires on the same axle. The best approach, though, is to replace all four if the tread on the old tires is significantly worn.

One way to avoid buying more than one tire is to have the tread on the new one “shaved” so it matches the depth of the others. Some tire dealers will shave off some tread depth on a special machine for a fee.

If you decide to replace only one tire, it should be the same model, size and tread pattern as the others. A different brand or model tire will have even greater differences in traction and number of revolutions per mile, and it’s likely to wear at a different rate. That means it could conceivably wear out faster than the others, even if it starts out with more tread depth.

Whether you decide to replace just one tire or more, tire experts advise that the new rubber should be mounted on the rear. If new tires are mounted on the front, the worn tires in the rear would be more susceptible to hydroplaning — riding on top of water on the road — and possibly causing the vehicle to spin in a turn.

Automatic Transmission Out at Park

Your shift interlock feature, which requires you to step on the brake pedal to prevent unintentionally shifting out of Park, could be malfunctioning. Alternatively, the shift cable or linkage connected to the shift lever could be gummed up with grease or corroded so that it can’t operate freely.

If the interlock switch is worn and not fully releasing, or the brake lights don’t receive a signal from the brake light switch to illuminate, you won’t be able to shift out of Park.

Grease, dirt and moisture can collect in or on the interlock and brake light switches, and on the shift cable and related parts, hampering their operation. When that happens, you’re most likely to have problems shifting out of Park when the engine and transmission are cold, such as after the car has sat for hours. After the engine gets warm — and other parts get warmer, as well — the goo might become softer and make it easier to shift out of Park.

Most cars have a means of overriding the shift lock so you can drive the car to a mechanic rather than have it towed: A small door the size of a fingernail is often found on the console next to or close to the shifter itself. After prying this cover off, one can insert a screwdriver or key and press down to release the lock. Vehicles with column shifters may hide the release on top of the steering column or on the bottom. Your owner’s manual will help you identify the location on your car.

A transmission that’s low on fluid also can be hard to shift out of Park, though that also would likely cause a noticeable degradation in the transmission’s overall performance, such as sluggish or harsh shifts.

Another possible cause is that when a car is on even a slight incline, it will put more load on the transmission parking pawl (a bar that engages teeth in a transmission gear to prevent the vehicle from rolling). This is more likely to happen if you didn’t engage the parking brake before releasing the brake pedal. The weight of the vehicle rolling onto the parking pawl makes it harder to shift out of Park. To avoid this, engage the parking brake when on an incline before shifting into Park or releasing the brake pedal. That way the parking brake, not the transmission pawl, bears the load.

Lease or Buy a New Car

unduhan-19Is leasing or buying the best way to finance your next car? It’s hard to give this a quick answer since there are so many trade-offs. However, if you take a closer look at your lifestyle, your needs and your preferences, you can reach a sound decision.

For example, if you need an upscale car for business, perhaps to entertain clients, leasing allows you to drive a luxury vehicle for less money. It might also provide a good tax write-off. However, if you don’t need the status of a new car and prefer to keep automotive costs as low as possible, the best choice would be to buy a new or used car and keep it for as long as it is reliable.

Ultimately, you can say good things about both buying and leasing. Your choice might be more of a combination of personal tastes and priorities than pure dollars and cents.

If you want to dive deeper into the economics of leasing and buying, use the Edmunds Auto Calculators to see what your lease payments would be and to compare the costs to buying a car.

Also, you can view sample calculations in this analysis of three common car financing scenarios: leasing, buying a new car and buying a used car.

Since everyone’s situation is different, here’s a list of the pros and cons of leasing and buying a car. Some of these points are financial factors and others relate to a person’s needs and lifestyle. Keep in mind that there isn’t always a perfect answer to the question of whether to lease or buy.

Advantages of Leasing:

  • Lower monthly payments with a low — or no — down payment.
  • You can drive a better car for less money.
  • Lower repair costs because you are always under the vehicle’s included factory warranty.
  • You can more easily transition to a new car every two or three years.
  • There are no trade-in hassles at the end of the lease.
  • You pay less sales tax.

Disadvantages of Leasing

  • You don’t own the car at the end of the lease (although there is always the option to buy).
  • Your mileage is typically limited to 12,000 miles a year (you can purchase extra).
  • Lease contracts can be confusing and filled with unfamiliar terminology.
  • In the long run, leasing is more expensive than buying a car and keeping it for years.
  • Excessive wear-and-tear charges can be a nasty surprise at the end of the lease.
  • It’s costly to terminate a lease early if your driving needs change.

Advantages of Car Buying

  • You can modify your car as you please.
  • Car buying is more economical over the long term.
  • You can drive as much as you like. There’s no excess mileage penalty.
  • You have more flexibility since you can sell the car whenever you want.

Find The Car Lease Strategies

A lease contract can be both economical and flexible if you know the options that are available to customize the contract to your personal situation and budget.

As leasing grows in popularity, banks offer more finance options to serve a broader range of shoppers. However, only experts know many of these strategies. Furthermore, the rules of leasing programs are always changing and not all lenders offer these options.

If any of these strategies sound interesting, and you want more details, check the carmaker’s Web site undercar buying tools. You can also speak with the finance and insurance officer at a dealership, but “he has a vested interest in making sure everything goes smoothly and you sign on the bottom line,” says Dave Cavano, manager of the Automobile Club of Southern California’s car-buying service. A representative from the leasing company might prove to be a more neutral source.

Here, then, are five leasing strategies from the experts that can cut costs and customize leasing for your individual situation.

1. Make multiple security deposits to reduce your interest rate.
In most leasing contracts, the security deposit is equal to one month’s payment rounded up to the nearest $50, explains Oren Weintraub, president of Authority Auto. So if your monthly payment is $425, the security deposit is $450. If you agree to pay two or more fully refundable security deposits, the leasing company reduces the interest rate (which is called money factor when leasing) because its risk is lower. A lower money factor means a reduced monthly payment.

This option isn’t available for all leasing programs, and many lenders limit the number of security deposits that you can use. However, if you have the money and you are not investing it, this strategy could save $1,000 or more over the three years of the lease. But Cavano adds: “It actually flies in the face of what leasing is all about — keeping your money liquid.”

2. One-pay leasing works for some.
A similar strategy to the multiple security deposits is the one-pay lease. A major benefit of leasing is that you know exactly what your total automotive expenses are for the length of the lease. For example, if you paid zero drive-off fees and your monthly lease payment was $350, then your total cost over three years would be $12,600. In a one-pay lease you make all the payments upfront, and the leasing company reduces your interest rate. So rather than paying $350 a month, you would pay less interest and the equivalent of $320 a month for a total of $11,520 in one lump sum. That saves $1,080.

The one-pay lease works best for people who have a lot of money, but little established credit, says Cavano. This could be a person entering the country for a short period of time, such as a student. Anyone considering this approach should also consider whether they could invest the lump sum of money more profitably elsewhere.

Weintraub occasionally mentions this strategy for people who are intending to pay cash for a luxury car. Rather than making a larger cash payment to own the car, he suggests arranging a one-pay lease, then paying for the rest of the car at the end of the lease. This allows the person to maintain some flexibility and also hold on to their money longer.

3. Continue your lease month-to-month until you are ready to get your next car.
Some people panic as the end of their lease approaches because they don’t know what car they will get next. But Swapalease Executive Vice President Scot Hall points out that most leasing companies will allow you to keep the car on a month-to-month basis.

You don’t want to do that for too long, however, Cavano points out. If you ultimately decide you want to buy the car you’ve been leasing, you might have to pay the original residual figure, which will now be outdated, and possibly too high.

Here’s why: Leasing companies set the residual figure at the beginning of the lease, and it is a prediction of what the car will be worth at that time. Forecasting company ALG sets lease residuals as a percentage of the original value of the vehicle. So, if you extend the lease, and then buy the car, you are buying the car for what it was worth several months previously.

Still, as long as you go month-to-month as a short-term fix, it can help you buy extra time in your current car. After all, it’s never a good idea to buy a car in a hurry.

4. It’s easier than you think to transfer your lease before the end of the contract.
According to SwapaLease’s Hall, it is possible to transfer about 80 percent of leases with no strings attached. SwapaLease and rival LeaseTrader find a person to take over the lease and, for a fee, handle the paperwork.